The quiet wrecking of Norfolk

Even if you're a non-believer in terms of global warming - and there is plenty of evidence out there that does not align with the main-stream view - there is good reason to be concerned about future energy supplies.  Whatever you think, the sad fact is that much of the landscape of Britain is being changed in the name of responding to this.

Much of the high and formerly empty spaces in Wales, the West Country and the Northern Hills have fallen to our new idol - wind power. Sadly Norfolk seems to be heading the same way. Recent planning decisions suggest that even with growing misgivings about finance and carbon footprint, the quality of the landscape and the wishes of local communities still do not figure much at the end of the day.

Having lost the battle at Stanhoe, a large area of open 'high Norfolk' is soon to change with the construction of six 100m plus turbines. Less obviously intrusive but significant in its own way, Planning notices have just been posted for a solar farm at Bunkers Hill on the 'Dry Road' from Fakenham to Wells. It could be argued that this site impacts on few neighbours, but it does mean change of use from agricultural to industrial with attendant security fencing, buildings and all the necessary infrastructure - and it is another loss of the few big empty spaces in Norfolk.

Tellingly, the first results of an internet search for solar farms are all adverts for operators seeking sites. "Earn top arable yields from pasture. We won't waste your time", and "Farmer? We farm too - call us." and "Premium rental for land suitable for solar farms in England & Wales"  The message is pretty clear, I think. Couple this with the NFU conference trumpeting how farmers can save us all from impending energy armageddon and its a pretty gloomy outlook for beautiful empty Norfolk.  Or anywhere where money might be made.

Mud, mud, glorious mud

It could be spring, but we all know it isn't that simple. Today the sun's shining, the wind's dropped and we're feeling fine. Just 3 days ago it was rather different and in another 3 days it probably will be again. However, talking to visitors it doesn't actually make that difference to most, and indeed there is a sizeable contingent who come to enjoy whatever North Norfolk chooses to throw at them.  This week it seems the dominant experience was not wind or sleet or even sun - but mud.

There is to be honest quite a bit of it about at the moment. But there's mud and mud.  There's the stuff that people find on their winter walks and which at the moment they are tending to slip and slide on and then there's the stuff in the creeks and on the marsh.

It isn't hard to understand why so many of us love these marginal areas.  Just as you don't need to be particularly religious to appreciate and enjoy the beauty of ancient churches, you don't need to have a boat to enjoy the North Norfolk creeks, and in both cases you would be in the majority. What is less easy to appreciate is that there is a substantial cost attached to managing places like Overy Staithe.  The fact that Cathedrals fall down if they are not cared for at considerable cost is more readily appreciated than the fact that these creeks would silt up and disappear if they were not cared for - also at considerable cost.

Traditionally, the groynes - these are the banks of stone you see in the creek at Overy - were maintained as a matter of tradition and routine in order to direct the currents and maximise the scouring effect of the  tide. With the decline of working boats this traditional pattern of care and maintenance passed into history and the channels become increasingly shallow.  Ultimately, without maintenance, the groynes would pass into history and so would any navigable channel. Life and landscape would change - not as a result of activity but of inactivity, and there would be more and more mud and less water. Whatever we think about the current state of play it is hard to find anything particularly good about such a change. The question is how even maintaining the status quo is to be funded.

Is that it?

Two weeks ago, it was wall to wall blue sky and the garden was looking like it might be thinking about spring. Indeed, the fennel was well into new growth. As ever this has proved to be somewhat of an illusion and a dusting of snow overnight on the Sunday was followed by some more significant snow on Monday evening.

As ever, the roads in north west Norfolk seem to be admirably cared for by the gritting teams - for which they seem to get little praise - and there was no problem in leaving for London on the Tuesday morning.  The difference between dealing with snow on lightly trafficked rural roads and busy urban ones was highlighted later the same day, when Norwich quickly became gridlocked during a heavy snowfall in the early afternoon. Predictably there was a very British outcry but if the roads are already full of traffic there is little any gritter or snowplough can do.

Further snowfall, heavy and light, forecast and unforeseen coupled with some low temperatures has punctuated life both in London and Norfolk over the last two weeks with dire consequences for the optimists in the garden as well as the number of visitors to both galleries.  

Hardly surprising in the case of the latter for even though Norfolk's roads have been pretty good, the pavements have been a somewhat less attractive proposition.

Yesterday, the predicted sting in the tail failed to materialise - in Norfolk if not on the M6 - the garden heaved a gentle sigh as the snow began to melt and the visitors returned - en masse.  An overnight thaw produced a miraculous transformation today - back to blue skies and very hard to find even a trace of the white stuff.  A brief excursion to the recycling centre was a delight. Fantastic light, no traffic to speak of and the north Norfolk coast looking fabulous as ever.

One point of note, the River Burn which I had confidently reassured visitors about only 3 weeks ago is looking pretty full. Which is probably good news... but, as the last couple of weeks has shown and as we found last February, that is probably not the end of it.  My guess is a couple of weeks of wind and rain, and then maybe just a little more cold before the Fennel can be back about its business.

Post Christmas Ponderings

The days between Christmas and New Year are always strange with the normal pattern of weekdays and weekends abandoned. This year seems odder than most but maybe that's just me. One thing that doesn't change is the usual surge of visitors to this part of Norfolk post-Christmas. As someone remarked this morning it does often seem that this part of the world is just right for the New Year. The beaches, the wind-blown walks all seem just right.

Listening to a conversation here yesterday - even for those who are not dedicated birdwatchers - the birds do provide common interest for so many. Norfolk's own Sacred Ibis is apparently still hanging around in Cley, oblivious to the speculation as to its status as a legitimate visitor or merely an escapee. And then there's the seals. Blakeney's colony is having a bumper year and unsurprisingly they are being seen along the coast, in the channel at Wells and on the beach at Brancaster.

And of course between the walks there is the all important visit or visits to your favourite hostelry.  If you only acted on what you read on-line about some of our local pubs and restaurants you probably wouldn't dare set foot in them.  Yes, they change with ownership and chefs and in some cases they do seem to be being a bit greedy with their prices, but they must be doing something right or they wouldn't still attract the numbers they do. An extended family lunch in one of my favourites more than came up to expectations and you can only marvel at how they do it. It's not just one good meal, it's all of them, all day, everyday. Long may they thrive and prosper!

3 days to go

North Norfolk isn't looking particularly Christmassy today.  The world hasn't ended but it is rather dark and decidedly damp. A couple of visitors yesterday who are staying at the Mill asked whether the Burn floods.  I said it was doubtful as there are sluices which can be opened and they seemed re-assured. Think I'm right.

Interesting discussion yesterday regarding artist's proofs.  I have always believed that there is more than one, and that in the case of a large edition there can in fact be quite a number. Subsequent discussion with those much more expert than I have indeed confirmed that.  As far as whether, as is suggested on various internet sites, AP's are worth more I somehow doubt this.  As with all art you should buy because you like it, not because one just might be worth than another. Here end's the lesson.

Prints always do well around Christmas, and this year is no exception with Glynn Thomas leading the field by some way. Despite being a Suffolk boy, his Norfolk subjects must be right as well.  Happily, Glynn works close to my alternative route from London to Norwich so we have been able to meet some very late requests. I think his framer may now have had enough! so no more until the New Year I think.

Strange things on social media

"9 people have booked pre Christmas oven cleaning today so far - don't leave it too late"  I'm not sure I'll sleep now for worrying.

"Christmas Club Turkey and Cranberry sandwiches now available £8. Lunchtime only. #tistheseasontobejoyful.  Yes I suppose so if you're selling them. Mind the rush. 
and finally,

"the 17.02 London Liverpool Street to Norwich will start at Colchester tonight due to a train fault". Not a complete surprise but it's not really from London then, is it?

Comparisons

Some years ago - certainly before we opened in Burnham - I remember having a phone call from another gallery along the coast just checking that no calamity had overtaken the wider world, they having not seen any visitors over the previous few days.  All was well, but it served to highlight the unpredictability of these things, particularly at this time of year.

November this year has for us been much busier than last. Some of this can be attributed to Norfolk having thus far escaped some of the more extreme weather of the last couple of weeks (I'm sure our turn will come) but it has been Gerard Stamp's exhibition which has attracted so many. Despite the often off-putting conditions for those travelling far, we have seen visitors from across the country and the comments in the visitor's book suggest they have been more than pleased with what they have seen.

Autumn is fairly clearly now giving way to winter here.  The brief burst of autumn colour was somewhat brusquely blown away early on Sunday morning and is now just a memory.

Just to confirm things, Burnham's Christmas lights were switched on last weekend although, as ever, the as yet unlit tree at this end of the village appeared after the event. At this point, I should confess I have yet to put our own lights up yet. Advent seems early enough - although not very commercially aware.  At least one other local business had lights and a tree up before half-term. It would be interesting to know if it really makes any difference; I remain to be convinced.